Loire Valley Bike Tour – I want it all

Upon your arrival in Blois train station, you will be met and taken to your first hotel in Cheverny, a short drive away. The Chateau in Cheverny is of course the town’s main attraction but you’ll truly enjoy the village itself with its ancient stone houses topped by the region’s typical grey slate roofs, the ancient church – dating back to 1145 – with its pointed bell-tower, a salt barn, the old town forge and the traditional washhouse. The classical chateau is set in beautiful gardens and has some of the best preserved interiors in the Loire. The Chateau of Cheverny was the inspiration for Marlinspike Hall in Hergé’s famous Tintin books, explaining the Tintin Museum in one of the buildings. The castle also has an impressively large pack (over 100!) of hunting dogs and you can visit the kennels. After settling in, our Trip Manager will meet you at the hotel to check your bike fitting and we’ll go over questions about your trip package with you.

Your route takes you along tiny quiet roads, on very easygoing terrain today, as well as some dedicated bike paths. You’ll love your first views of the regions vineyards, and tiny towns and villages. When you arrive at the majestic domain of the Chateau de Chambord, you ride through the dense forest that was for centuries, the hunting grounds to the Kings of France. For one of your first chateau visit in the region, Chambord is certainly one of the most impressive. A monumental Royal hunting residence, built by King Francois I, the Chateau of Chambord is a masterpiece of Renaissance architecture. The size of it alone is simply astonishing, along with the beautiful sculpted details throughout the building. After exploring Chambord, your route turns back towards Cheverny, through lovely quiet countryside and several villages (stop to admire the covered market in Bracieux, and for a treat from the local chocolate maker there), before returning to your hotel for a second evening. We encourage you to enjoy a wine tasting at the welcoming and informative caveau in town at the end of your ride.

You leave Cheverny today, riding out from the town through the tranquil small roads and small villages, south of the Loire River. Your route brings you along the Beuvron River valley to rejoin the Loire in pretty Candes, and then follow a great bike path to Chaumont. The Chateau de Chaumont, beautifully overlooking the river below, was acquired by the powerful Catherine de Medicis in 1560. Today it is renowned for its English-style Garden Festival where contemporary garden designers display their inventive and astonishing works. Your route continues on the other side of the river, for some easygoing riding on toiny quiet roads all the way to Amboise, your destination for the day. Amboise is famous not only for its chateau, which dominates the town, but also for the beautiful “Clos de Lucé” manor house which was Leonardo Da Vinci’s residence whilst he was in the service of the French King. You can visit it, and admire the models of his inventions, as well as see the chapel at the chateau where he is buried… We include your dinner this evening in a restaurant with great ambiance in the medieval centre.

Today’s route takes you southward, away from the Loire River along quiet, un-trafficked roads through forests and fields, and eventually descending to another river, the Cher, and the Château de Chenonceau, a wall of elegance spanning it. Renaissance Chenenceau is one of the most popular chateaux in France. It was completed in the 16th century, when it was given as a gift by King Henry II to his beloved mistress, Diane de Poitiers. Diane has the stunning arched corridor across the river constructed and oversees the planting of extensive gardens. She was the unquestioned mistress of the castle, but after King Henry II died in 1559, his strong-willed and jealous widow and regent Catherine de Medici forced Diane to exchange it for the Château Chaumont, and triumphantly makes Chenonceau her own residence. After visiting the tranquil scene of such feminine battling, and finding some lunch in the neighbouring village, your route takes you back on a great bike path next to the Cher River, and then through pretty countryside, forest, and villages to Amboise for a second evening.

Your ride today is not very long, allowing you time in Tours once you get there. The route partially follows tiny un-trafficked roads, and partly a dedicated bike path, above and parallel to the Loire River all the way. You pass through small villages and pretty vineyards before spotting the steeple of Tours Cathedral in the distance. Once you arrive and settle in to your hotel, you can take some time to explore. During the Middle Ages, Tours consisted of two juxtaposed and competing centres: The “City” in the east, successor of the late Roman ‘castrum’, was composed of religious establishment (the cathedral and palace of the archbishops) and of the castle of Tours, seat of the authority of the Counts and of the King of France. In the west, the “New City” structured around the Abbey of Saint Martin was freed from the control of the City during the 10th century. This space became the economic centre of Tours. The two centres were linked during the 14th century, but you still sense the two halves today. We provide a self guided walking tour to help explore the Medieval centre (Vieux Tours), with the half-timbered houses, the parks, and Place Plumereau, a lively square with many restaurants and pubs.

After your breakfast, the first part of today’s ride abandons the Loire River, to follow a bike path on the smaller winding Cher River. You leave Tours away from any traffic, and meander through easygoing countryside and small hamlets, on the outskirts of Tours, bringing you eventually through the small town of Savonnieres, and on to Villandry, where we highly recommend you make a stop. The castle in Villandry can be visited, but it is the beautiful Renaissance gardens that are of worldwide renown. You can wander through the vegetable gardens, flower gardens, water garden, and symbolic garden, all beautifully presented in formal patterns, outlined with low box hedges. The route then continues southwards, with the option to detour over the elegant bridge into Langeais, to see the impressive fortified castle there. Descend eventually to yet another River, the Indre, and the town of Azay le Rideau. If you feel like it, stop at a local winery for a wine tasting as you arrive. You’ll also want to take some time to visit the castle – not one of the largest of the Loire in size, the 16th century castle of Azay is one of the prettiest, with the mix of Italian Renaissance style, and the charm of a French castle on the water, mirrored in the ripples of the Indre River.

From Azay you leave the Indre River and ride northwards back to the Loire on easygoing terrain. Once there, you then follow a wonderful bike route next to the River westwards,  You soon reach the Château d’Ussé, the enchanting castle that inspired the Sleeping Beauty castle of Disney fame. Turn once again away from the river, this time towards medieval Chinon, a lovely and lively town spanning the banks of the river, but your approach brings you via the renowned vineyards that have made the town’s reputation, for the delicious, crisp red wines, with their particular spiced-fruit flavours. Chinon is firmly anchored in the region’s history; it was here that Joan of Arc arrived to convince the Dauphin King of her destiny to win back lost territories from the English. Imagine her plea to the unbelieving court as you wander the ruins of the castle today. After explorations of town, including Rue Voltaire with its many medieval houses, its boutiques and cafés, pedal the final stretch of your ride following the Vienne River to its confluence with the Loire, to neighbouring Candes and Montsoreau, both rated as France’s official “prettiest villages” and your home for this evening.

Your final ride is a lovely route through the countryside of the Loire Valley, first moving away from the banks of the river once more. In the small town of Fontevraud, you should take some time to visit the abbey there. Founded in 1099, the Abbaye Royale de Fontevraud is one of the biggest monastic complexes of western Christendom. The powerful queen of two countries, Eleanor of Aquitaine is buried in a painted stone coffin within the walls of the abbey, with her French husband, Henry II, and her son, the famous Richard the Lionheart. You pass several other sites as you approach Saumur, including troglodyte communities, mushroom caves, and an artisanal ‘hammered apple” maker. The historic centre of Saumur makes for great explorations; many of the monuments are built in the lovely soft local stone known as tuffeau. The Château de Saumur stands high overlooking the town. Saumur is home to the “Cadre Noir”, the National School of Horsemanship, known for its annual horse shows, as well as the Armoured and Cavalry Training School. There is an interesting and unique tank museum, with more than 850 armored vehicles, wheeled or tracked. We include dinner this evening, at one of our favourite restaurants. (note the Deluxe itinerary continues through Saumur a short distance further to the Chateau-hotel Le Prieure).

After a final breakfast, say goodbye to the Loire Valley until next time. Connections are easy from Saumur train station to your further travels. Bon Voyage!